Bourj el-Barajneh: Searching for
Meaning in a Refugee Camp
by Ramzy Baroud – Beirut, Lebanon
Two
young girls stood, as if frozen, staring below them at an ever vibrant
Beirut. Their balcony, like the rest of their house and most of their
refugee camp was of an indistinct color.
It was dirty, as were their
clothes. They, on the other hand, looked beautiful and bright, although
their future didn’t.
Here
in Bourj el-Barajneh, one of a dozen Palestinian refugee camps in
Lebanon, time seems to have stood still for years.
Generation after
generation, children grow up in the same desperate reality, punished for
crimes they did not commit, injured by a history not of their making.
They stand on dirty balconies, cracked beyond repair, watching Beirut
and the world go by.
The
city is abuzz with life, politics, rumors, anticipation and intrigue.
It remains perpetually divided between many worlds and contradictions,
in a way that seems almost impossible to reconcile or bridge.
Bourj
el-Barajneh has grown into a ‘municipality’ since its original
inception as a ‘temporary’ accommodation for the Palestinian refugees
who were expelled from their homes and land in Palestine between 1947
and 1948. The Palestinian physical share of the camp has largely
remained the same, although the numbers have significantly grown.
Influxes of Shia, Sunni, and more recently Iraqis have moved in and
around the vicinity of the camp.
Little was put in place to accommodate
the natural growth, or to regulate the latter population influxes. Some
self-servingly argued that allowing Palestinian refugees to improve
their conditions would disconnect them from their homeland and sense of
belonging. Therefore, suffer they must, with little work opportunity, no
civil rights, and no cement or building material to repair their
pitiful existence.
A
state of arrested development has defined this particular refugee camp
and Lebanon’s relationship with refugees. Those opposed to the refugee
presence fear that incorporating Palestinians into Lebanese society
might be the prelude to incorporating them into the country’s political
landscape. This might risk further complicating an already messy
demography. While Christian sects in Lebanon are the most fearful,
others are also anxious.
In
1982, a constant state of siege received a boost when the Israeli army,
along with their allies among Christian Phalangists, laid a brutal and
deadly siege around Bourj el-Barajneh. Palestinians and Lebanese
resisted, but lightly armed refugees could only go so far in
withstanding the might of regional superpowers armed by a world
superpower. The camp eventually collapsed, as many of its buildings
fell. Whatever remained standing was dotted with holes and painful
memories.
Another
siege followed, and lasted for almost exactly three years, between 1984
and 1987. The perpetrator this time was the Amal militia. This incident
also left its own evidence of ailing walls and cracked windows. With
rebuilding made illegal by law, and very little by way of funds, the
dust of war was the only fresh coat of paint the camp could possible
hope for.
But
they are many in Lebanon who still want to see improvement - whether
slight or significant to the lives of Palestinian refugees, whether in
Bourj el-Barajneh or elsewhere. Hezbollah has, till now, guarded various
refugee camps against many threats. Palestinians here gratefully
acknowledge that without Hezbollah serving as a bulwark against the many
looming dangers, the plight of the refugees would have been much worse.
But Hezbollah, a Shia group, can also be hostage to Lebanon’s abhorring
sectarian divisions, demography and political forces. Palestinians here
are counting on Hezbollah to step up its support. They need the group
to challenge the rejectionist forces in the Lebanese parliament, and
demand civil rights for Palestinian refugees. Much is being debated at
this time, and there are many backdoor discussions over details,
semantics, and more.
Meanwhile,
the two Palestinian girls continue to stand on the discolored balcony.
They are sisters of about eight and ten years old. They were born after
the two terrible sieges and much of the war that tormented their family
for generations. But they were here to witness the 2006 war. Their
refugee camp is a short distance from the Dahiya, the predominantly Shia
neighborhood where Hezbollah is headquartered. Tough men and women
withstood the unimaginable firepower directed at that tiny stretch of
land, as in many other parts of Lebanon. Now, most of Dahiya has been
rebuilt, with final touches being laid to edifices of concrete that will
soon – if another war doesn’t erupt – become hospitals, schools,
offices and subsidised residential areas for the poor.
But
the same is not true for Bourj el-Barajneh. The camp continues to carry
the physical and philological scars of past wars, each generation
passing them on to the next. A paradigm shift here is only possible when
the balance of power significantly shifts in favor of one party or
another. Aside from admiring its stiff resistance against Israel,
Palestinians in Lebanon place so much hope in Hezbollah, believing it
will be the party that finally tips the balance of power in favor of
justice for the refugees.
Bourj
el-Barajneh roughly translates into ‘Tower of Towers’. And in many ways
it is. It has stood the test of time and bombs. Its people have
surpassed the limits of human endurance and determination in a way that
should be scientifically recorded. In some areas it towers over Beirut,
from the Haret Hreik direction. Illegal construction and limited space
for horizontal expansion forced the refugees to build in some parts in a
vertical fashion, creating a Kafkian-like reality, true but surreal.
And
the refugees too are teetering between the lines of an almost
pseudo-reality. They find themselves held hostage in time and space, in a
growing city, a hectically changing world, frozen in time and
increasingly lowered expectations.
The
two girls continued to stare, clearly without a specific target in
mind, while people below them walked on, unhindered by their confusion. I
too walked away. For a minute I hoped for a sign, anything that could
assure me that there was some meaning behind all this strangeness, all
this injustice. I am sure there is, but today, I could find none.
Ramzy Baroud (www.ramzybaroud.net) is an internationally-syndicated
columnist and the editor of PalestineChronicle.com. His latest book is
My Father Was a Freedom Fighter: Gaza's Untold Story (Pluto Press,
London), now available on Amazon.com.