Ejido Morelia, Chiapas - The gathering in a jungle clearing on a Zapatista ejido with the
haunting name of La Realidad ("The Reality") 11 years ago was nicknamed
the "Intergalactica" because in his convocation the rebels'
spokesperson Subcomandante Marcos invited all sentient life forms from
other planets in the galaxy to participate in the event. "We don't know
if they actually came to the first Intergalactica" Zapatista Lieutenant
Colonel Moises mused recently, "at least they never identified
themselves."
After more than a decade of anti-globalization
struggles and World Social Forums, the Intergalactica has literally
returned to earth. The scaled-down version of the event pitched as an
"Encounter of the Peoples of the World with the Peoples of the
Zapatista Communities" to defend indigenous territories throughout the
Americas staged July 20-28 at three rebel "caracoles" or public
political/cultural centers in Mexico's southernmost state of Chiapas,
zeroed in on the land and those who work and live upon it.
Whereas
Intergalactica I attracted such literary luminaries as Eduardo Galeano
and European intellectuals Yvon Lebot, Danielle Mitterand, and Alain
Touraine (Nobelist Jose Saraamgo and Susan Sontag would soon follow),
the 2007 edition brought together representatives of poor farmers from
13 mostly-southern countries to swap experiences with Zapatista base
communities in the highlands, the canyons, and the jungle of Chiapas,
and develop mechanisms for mutual self-defense against the ravages of
neo-liberalism.
The privatization of communal lands, the
destruction of native crops, and the forced migration of millions of
poor farmers constitutes a declaration of "the fourth world war again
humanity", Marcos charged in welcoming 3000 activists and Zapatista
bases to the caracol "Resistance and Rebellion Before The World" at
Oventik in Los Altos of Chiapas.
Much as at last New Year when
the EZLN celebrated its 13th year on public display, the interchanges
at Oventik, on the Ejido Morelia (the Caracol "Whirlwind of Our Word")
and La Realidad ("The Mother of the Sea of Our Dreams") featured
presentations by civil Zapatismo (as opposed to the rebels'
political-military structure) as local health and education promoters
laid out the nuts and bolts of building autonomous communities. Other
lay Zapatista leaders delineated the rebels' justice system and how
land is distributed and cultivated in the autonomous zones.
In
response, farmers invited under the aegius of Via Campesina, an
international grouping of millions of poor farmers with affiliates in
over 70 nations, spoke to the struggle for land and justice in their
own countries. Among the participants: Yudhmir Singh of India's Bartya
Kissan Union who described Ghandian civil disobedience by poor farmers
to resist neo-liberal agrarian policies foisted on those who work the
land, and representatives of the Thai Assembly of the Poor who farm the
jungle along the Cambodian border.
First world farmers were
represented by George Naylor, outgoing director of the U.S. Family Farm
Association, who told the Zapatistas of the resistance of small corn
farmers in Iowa to the dissemination of genetically modified seed. Dong
Uk Min of the Korean farmers union, invoked the memory of the campesino
Lee Kwang Hai who committed suicide at the 2003 World Trade
Organization assembly in Cancun.
From further south, Soraya
Soriana, a leader of Brazil's militant Movimento Sem Terras (MST) and
speakers from Venezuela's Wayuu nation cautioned encounter-goers
against the "neo-imperialist" policies of such left-wing leaders as
Lula and Hugo Chavez. The Zapatistas share a similar distrust of Latin
America's social democratic left.
The colloquy between farmers
in defense of indigenous lands unfolded against an appropriate backdrop
of spiring "milpas" (cornfields) and the deep green of surrounding
hills at the height of Mexico's bountiful rainy season - uniformed
militia men and women in their green and black uniforms seemed almost
to organically blend into the abundant vegetation.
The
encampments in the caracoles thrummed with conviviality. Nightly
cultural presentations brought the campers together under the stars.
Nuns chatted with ski-masked rebels and rangy Nordic punksters danced
in the mud with pint-sized Mayan companeras while horses grazed
placidly in nearby pastures. In contrast to the 1996 Intergalactica
when Mexican immigration authorities sought to prevent foreign
activists from attending the encounter under threat of deportation,
access to the Zapatista zone was unrestricted.
In a world
where five live shooting wars dominate front pages with daily doses of
death and destruction, and in a country where an infuriated
underclass's demands for justice are met by brutal government
repression, the Zapatista caracoles for once seem to be pockets of
peace.